From Shack to Chateau

22 February 2010
In the afternoon we continued on to Tongariro National Park – a huge area of striking scenery which became a World Heritage Site in 1991 because of its unique landscape and cultural heritage. In the centre of the park are three huge volcanoes which rise dramatically from a plateau of grassy tussocks. These volcanic areas were used as locations for Emyn Muil, The Plains of Gorgoroth, Mordor and Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings films but on a sunny day like today it’s hard to feel any of the threat portrayed in the films, although even today the cone of Mount Ruapehu (2797m) is wreathed in mist and shadow and there are still one or two patches of snow left on the areas of deep shadow.


The volcanic activity forecast for it today is level one ( low – the highest is five) but it is still very active, it last erupted in 2007 when it sent huge rivers of mud (known as lahars – this blog will really come in useful for your next pub quiz) down the side of the mountain.
Our hotel for the night can only be described as surreal; in the middle of this huge expanse of stunning countryside stands a huge 1929-built brick chateau called, rather unimaginatively, Chateau Tongariro.

All ever so over the top (what Gregg’s mother might have called “piss-elegant”) with large draped and chandeliered public areas including a lounge with a full-size snooker table. What makes it even more surreal is that within these gracious portals are numerous guests wandering around wearing shorts and hiking boots/sandals with backpacks– yes, we really fit, although the restaurant does ask that guests dress “appropriately” – at dinner there was a couple wearing authentic 1920s dress even to Madame having a “flapper” hat; must say that we are staying in some interesting places in NZ – stay tuned for more.
We did a short walk this evening – the Whakapapa Nature Walk which show the different plants that grow at different altitudes and, almost inevitably includes a trip to some waterfalls/rapids.

We will be doing a longer “tramp” tomorrow morning – unfortunately even on a four-month trip we don’t have time to do the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing, which climbs a number of volcanic peaks, or the infamous three/four day Tongariro Northern Circuit, one of NZs great walks – perhaps this can be Barry and Gregg’s next walking challenge? Perhaps not, too many opportunities for “detours”, they’d never be seen again.