San Juan Chamula and Zinacantán

We left San Cristóbal to visit two of the predominantly Mayan villages nearby. We had been warned that it was inappropriate to take photographs because of superstitious beliefs that the camera would “steal the soul” of the individual. Photography was strictly forbidden in the churches and cameras have been confiscated by village elders as they have their own laws – no one has told them that “to live outside the law you must be honest” (Bob Dylan). Much of the population does not speak Spanish but the Government has built schools where lessons are taught in both Spanish and the local Mayan language but many parents do not send their children to school, instead preferring them to beg – it seems that as long as such attitudes exist the cycle of deprivation will never end.
We visited the church in both towns and were left speechless by the almost pre-historic belief systems.

The Church in San Juan Chamula was the most strange of the two in that whilst being nominally Roman Catholic the Christian saints are venerated as Mayan gods with San Juan (john the Baptist) having the highest place in the system – even above Jesus. Worship of the Sun, Moon, Life and other Mayan beliefs also happens there. The church has no pews but groups sit or kneel on the floor which is strewn with pine needles and filled with the smoke of copal incense and light candles in front of them, each colour representing a family member. Pagan healing rituals are also held in the church which may involve the breaking of a chicken’s neck in order for the sick person to be healed. The Government has built a brand new health centre in the village – it is unused.
In Zinacantán the people were far more relaxed and friendly and when we entered the church there was a group of young people being told that they each had equal rights - except of course to become a priest in the RC church – nevertheless it seems to be helping to break down the barriers of inequality with young women now talking about going to University. We also visited Antonia’s house where she has a small craft shop where she and her family demonstrate back-strap weaving, the making of tortillas and other aspects of life in the village – including drinking posh which is the local very strong liquor with a red variety that sets the throat and belly on fire – have a couple of litres of water handy! We were also shown traditional dress and what a man and woman would wear for a marriage ceremony so Jenny (Stuart’s wife) “married” Phil (no relation to Stuart, except that perhaps they are both now husbands-in law?)